First, overall impression: terrific holiday, excellently organised at UK and Morocco ends.
Now some detail:
· Pre holiday contact with Tourdust: Rebecca, as the only person I ever spoke to, you represent Tourdust for me: you were consistently extremely responsive to all my questions by phone and email with both speed and helpful replies - customer service at its best. Your offers of extra service were also much appreciated e.g. purchase of bus tickets from Marrakech to Essaouira for us in advance.
· Punctuality of pick ups and driving in Morocco: pick ups always on time, and drivers were courteous and interesting to talk to. Comfortable cars/mini buses.
· Imlil: Dar Adrar is a wonderful place, with extremely kind and helpful staff. We were the only guests on that first night, and sitting on the terrace in the fading light as we ate our dinner was a magical way to start our holiday.
· Trek: Lahsen was great: we particularly liked the fact that he quite often left us to walk on our own when the trail was very obvious. Ibrahim, our muleteer and cook was also great, though his English was more limited than Lahsen's. However, as Alison and I speak reasonable French we were able to talk to him too. We learnt a lot from Lahsen about the villages and vegetation that we were walking through. He seemed to know the whole world, and often stopped to talk to shepherds, shop keepers, and village elders as we walked. Those exchanges were always in his native Berber language, and we therefore felt just a bit left out of these sometimes long conversations. We didn't feel able to interrupt him, or to ask questions, but would have liked to. Perhaps he could be encouraged to somehow involve his client walkers in some of these conversations, or at least tell them afterwards about some of the content of the conversation? On one occasion, when we accompanied a couple of village women with their five cows for about 40 mins along a path, we did ask what they were talking about, and learnt that they were exchanging family histories. One of the women had worked in Marrakech as a maid, and had known members of Ibrahim's family. This interested us, as it led to a discussion about how women from villages sometimes have to work in the cities as servants to earn money - rather like in pre WW1 England.
· Food on trek: superb: we were astonished at the quality and quantity of food every lunch time on the trek, and the evening meals were great too. There was always good veggie food for Alison, with often a fishy or meat option for me. At lunch times there was always a super view and shady spot and a two hour siesta on a foam mattress before setting off again - brilliant!
· Accommodation: you had told me that we would be sleeping in tents when not in Imlil. However, Lahsen told us that only happened in the high season when gites sometimes fill up. So we were pleasantly surprised to be on foam mats in gites every night, with showers of varying sophistication - but showers nevertheless! - wonderful after 5-6 hours walking in temps of over 30 !
· Trek day three description: your text is a bit confusing here we think. We walked 4-5 hours to lower village, and then another 1.5-2 hours to Tamsoult, with additional altitude gain. We chose to stay at the refuge of Tamsoult (not a village), rather than in the village of Tizi Oussem, Lahsen gave us a choice, being careful to warn us, (on Mohammed's instructions!) that we might have to share a dormitory in the refuge). It was a long day but worth it . We were extremely glad that we chose this option, as the new (just two years old) refuge is fantastic, with stunning views from the terrace, wonderful showers, European style toilets, and comfortable bunk beds - the best night of the trek. There were only four other walkers staying in the refuge, so we had an eight bed dorm to ourselves. We gently teased Lahsen for not telling us in advance just what a great place this refuge is! The next morning - Trek day 4 - starting in Tamsoult meant that the waterfall was only 25 mins away, going up, away from the refuge. We then returned to the refuge, picked up our packs, and set off for Imlil which we reached at lunch time (so your description of trek day 4 needs amending a little).
· Ascent and descent numbers: Our impression was that these were not terribly accurate, as they missed all the ups and downs within the walk every day. We were fit enough every day, but we reckon that on some days we walked a total of quite a lot more than the amounts of ascent and descent given on the descriptions for each day of the trek.
· Marrakech accom: Riad Tzarra was wonderful - just four rooms - we were the only guests. Staff couldn't have been nicer or more helpful. Air conditioning was great (it was over 40 outside!). At this time of year the roof terrace of Riad Hanan is too hot to be really useable, and we reckon that the courtyard and rooms of Tzarra are nicer!
· Sites in Marrakech: we would recommend that you add the Museum of Photography to your list - just round the corner from Riad Tzarra and Place Moukef. Wonderful photos of Morocco in bygone times, and films of people in the Atlas mountains taken by a Frenchman in 1957 - fascinating - in many ways not much has changed. One ticket allows for unlimited entries over many days.
· Bus to Essaouira: very comfortable. We did not know where Villa de l'O was, but found it after asking – worth mentioning, perhaps, on your notes, that it is only five mins walk from Supra Tours depot - a wonderful little oldy worldy place, with colonial era furnishings, and a roof terrace overlooking the beach. Great place, and great little town.
· Return bus to Marrakech: when we received the bus tickets on arrival on first day in Morocco we were told that there was no 5pm bus from Ess to Marra (as we had requested), so we were given tickets for a 6pm bus. (which did not worry us) . However, at SupraTours office in Essouira we discovered that the 5pm bus did in fact exist - a relatively newly introduced Super Confort bus with wider seats (three across the bus – rather than usual four) and more leg room than the normal bus, and costing just 20 DH (2 euros!) more - so we swapped our tickets for that bus and had a very comfortable ride back to Marra, arriving in plenty of time for dinner.
· Picking up a taxi in Place Moukef: not always easy: we had to wait 15 minutes a couple of times, so travellers need to be warned.
· Dress code: many western women (and some men) tourists in Marrakech were very scantily clad, and we did not notice them getting leared at, or insulted, so it seems that in the big cities it is accepted nowadays that western women like to bare a lot of flesh short shorts, bare shoulders etc) . Still something that we, like you, would not encourage, but it seems to be no longer frowned upon as much as it was only a few years ago (according to friends who were in Morocco a few years ago). However, in the mountains life is still more conservative, so we think that shorts, and bare shoulders, should still be avoided (for both sexes).
· Restaurant recommendations in your notes: we ate at your recommendations Cafe Epices, Fondouk, Earth Cafe and Djemaa foodstalls - all excellent. We would recommend Cafe du Livre in French quarter as excellent too (ten mins walk from Supra Tours depot.), and free wifi!
In summary: a fantastic holiday - many thanks. We might well be asking you about Ethiopia next year....
