Flights with Royal Air Maroc both good, even 30 min early arrival in Marrakech. Transfers to/from hotels smooth (in spite of late hour arriving on the way there).
Treks in the Atlas Mts were superb in the spring. The Tassoult Valley was a treat for the senses, with wild flowers, tree blossom, birds (including nightingales every few hundred metres up the valley),rock formations and the frequent river-crossings. Not to mention the friendly local Berbers riding their mules to work, the children walking to school, women and children in colourful clothing. Magdaz was fascinating, with mint tea served on the roof of the agdz(?) or storage towerhouse, by the kind owner's daughter, complete with views of the mountains. There were few signs of other tourists, but this may change soon as the new access road nears completion. There were some interesting driving experiences through the river in the mean time!
The desert trek and camp near Oulad Driss made for another fascinating experience. Because it was pre-desert, with a mix of dunes and vegetation, there was more of interest than a true desert. Desert plants, insects and birds, sunset and sunrise made for some very photogenic moments. Add three camels and our two sons (aged 12 and 18) to the journey for further entertainment. The boys voted this the best part of the holiday. Shame it was only 2 days. The highlight was, for some, a camel spider in the tent, bottled and then examined and released the next morning. Some found it hard to get to sleep that evening!
Ait Benhaddou and Telouet provided a more historical slant on Morocco, ably escorted and informed by our guide Rasheed. The link between Ait Benhaddou and the film industry is a well- known attraction, but I will remember it equally for finding my first wild scorpion! Telouet is more remote, and just as interesting, and is accompanied by strikingly-coloured rock formations en route to Marrakech.
Marrakech is very much an acquired taste. It took us 24 hours to get used to the Medina and the souks, although we never actually got lost. Finding our way around (fairly) successfully, learning to ignore hassling vendors and haggling with others were all satisfying achievements. Recommended places/activities would include Palais La Bahia, Maison Tiskiwine, the Artisan zone on the western edge of the Medina, just wandering around the souks and market areas (especially the northern bits), and of course the Café de France terrace overlooking the main square (Place Jemaa-el-Fna) in the evening. Although some of the vendors were a slight nuisance, we did not feel threatened at any time. Some vendors will need to work on their patter, however. Being told by a waiter that we were a skinny family so we needed a meal at his restaurant was amusing rather than persuasive!
Travelling by 4x4 in Morocco was generally a good experience. Road surfaces were variable, according to how remote the area was, but we were too busy being distracted by the scenery to be bothered by any potential discomfort. The only slight trepidation felt was when one driver we had seemed to be playing 'chicken' with oncoming vehicles, on the single lane desert road heading towards M'hamid. Otherwise the driving was smooth and very considerate, especially on the rougher roads.
Accommodation was very good. We were made to feel welcome everywhere. The hostel at Ait ali n Itto was basic, and could have done with the hot water actually being hot, but we accepted that this goes with the territory in a remote area. All the riads we stayed in were very hospitable and generally provided good facilities. Riad Caravane at Ait Benhaddou and Dar Hanane in Marrakech were especially good quality, and welcome after roughing it for the previous 4 or 5 days. Eating breakfasts on the terraces in the mornings while watching the Atlas birdlife, or listening to the Imams in Marrakech successfully calling the faithful to prayer, was memorable.
Our guide, cooks and drivers were all excellent. Rasheed our guide was exceptional. He entered into the family spirit really easily, was a goldmine of information wherever we were, smoothed the way for us on many occasions. This included helping my lack of balance (due to a bout of labyrinthitis) by making a walking stick from a sapling so I could get across the Tassoult river without falling in. He acted as nurse for cuts and blisters on a number of occasions. His thoughtfulness and anticipation could not be faulted. He also seemed to have a very good rapport with the locals he needed to deal with. He was flexible enough to accept my idea of eating a takeaway picnic at an oasis near Zagora when returning from the desert. Abraham our first cook was much appreciated for his huge breakfasts, picnic lunches on trek, snacks on return and evening tajines. We were sad to see him leave us after 3 days. All tips given were easily merited. Thanks to Tourdust for giving us some ballpark advice on this.
So overall a marvellous Moroccan family adventure, scoring a big 5 out of 5. I wish we could do it all over again, and then some more.
